TY - BOOK AU - Buxbaum,Gerda TI - Icons of fashion: the 20th century SN - 3791333127 (pbk.) : AV - TT504 .I28 2005 PY - 2005/// CY - Munich, Germany, New York PB - Prestel Pub. KW - Fashion KW - History KW - 20th century KW - Fashion design KW - Clothing and dress KW - Fashion designers N1 - Originally published in 1999; Includes bibliographical references (p. 185-186) and index; 1900-1914: Women as a glower -- Rational dress -- Orientalism and opulence -- Paul Poiret -- Femmes de la mode -- 1915-1921: The wartime crinoline -- Coco Chanel -- Avant-garde clothing -- Erté: art deco master -- 1922-1929: Feminine and masculine -- Sportswear -- Fashion in motion -- Madeleine Vionnet -- The little black dress -- 1930-1938: Elsa Schiaparelli -- Wedge and triangle -- Salvatore Ferragamo -- Folded, draped, and gathered -- Charles James -- 1939-1946: Modish makeshift -- Hollywood sets the trends -- Costume jewelry -- Claire McCardell -- Ready-to-wear -- 1947-1949: Christian Dior -- Haute Couture -- Cristobal Balenciaga -- The cocktail dress -- 1950-1960: René Gruau -- Italian haute couture -- Woman or teenager? -- T-shirt, jeans, and leather jacket -- Accessories -- 1961-1967: Swinging London -- The miniskirt -- Second skins -- Street style -- Space age -- Op art clothing -- Fashion models -- Acid colors, paper, and PVC -- Pop art fashion -- Drugs, dreams, and dusty colors --1968-1979: Radical chic -- The folklore look -- Yves Saint Laurent -- Military style -- Fashion gets physical -- Geoffrey Beene -- Kenzo: east meets west -- United colors of Benetton -- Disco -- Vivienne Westwood -- Punk -- 1980-1990: The oversized look -- Dress for success -- Comme des Garçons -- Karl Lagerfeld -- Pouf, bustle, tutu, and crinoline -- U.S. lifestyle -- Donna Karan -- Moschino -- Jean-Paul Gaultier -- Stretched -- Gianni Versace -- Issey Miyake -- The deconstructionists -- 1991-2000: Grunge -- Fairy-tale couture -- Purism: clean chic -- Transparent looks -- Helmut Lang -- Designer labels -- Prada -- Global village -- Hip-hop -- Retro-modernism -- John Galliano -- High-tech chic -- New millennium ER -